San Francisco -- An estimated 200,000 people
of nearly all ages spilled into lower Market Street on Sunday in
San Francisco for a spirited but peaceful protest against U.S.
plans to invade Iraq.
Ringing cowbells, banging temple drums, chanting, singing,
dancing and waving colorful signs, puppets and placards, the
marchers moved slowly up Market in a huge anti-war demonstration.
While most simply walked the route, many pushed baby carriages,
underscoring the argument that war would threaten the future of
children most of all.
The march came one day after millions of people around the
world demonstrated against the U.S. government's stance on Iraq.
It coincided Sunday with an war protest in Sydney by about 200,000
people.
Organizers of the San Francisco march gave an initial crowd
estimate of 200,000 to 250,000, while San Francisco police
estimated the crowd at possibly 200,000.
"I'm just totally overwhelmed by the turnout today,
particularly when you consider that there were something like
150,000 people turned out for protests in other parts of
California just yesterday," said Andrea Buffa, national co-
chair of United for Peace and Justice, one of five co-sponsors of
Sunday's march and rally.
Although the main demonstration remained peaceful, a group
estimated at 1, 000 protesters broke away later in the afternoon
and vandalized businesses and clashed with police along Market
Street before some were arrested.
The main march began around noon at Justin Herman Plaza near
the Ferry Building and headed to the Civic Center, stretching for
more than a mile along Market Street. It took almost three hours
for the demonstration to pass by.
Many of the demonstrators flocked to the rally on mass transit.
BART spokesman Mike Healy estimated a jump of as many as 150,000
in Sunday's ridership over the same day a year ago.
However they arrived, by the beginning of the protest, tens of
thousands of people already had packed lower Market Street from
Justin Herman Plaza to Davis Street. Thousands more gathered on
the sidewalks, and additional thousands streamed down Market
Street toward the Ferry Building to join them.
As more protesters poured into the starting area, the crowd
listened to poetry, songs and speeches by anti-war speakers.
"We're bold, we're courageous, and we're loud,"
Assemblyman Mark Leno, D- San Francisco, said during the hourlong
rally at the beginning of the march. "March on, and let your
voice be heard. We will not let the war happen."
Another speaker, Assemblywoman Patricia Wiggins, D-Santa Rosa,
also drew applause from the crowd when she posed the rhetorical
question: "How do you want to spend $1.5 trillion? On our
children? Or on war?"
STRANGERS MINGLE EASILY
Despite the huge number of strangers thrown together for the
march, the crowd had a carnival-like atmosphere and the friendly,
cheerful mood of gigantic block parties. Many demonstrators
greeted each other with hugs, and some said they were glad just to
have a chance to make their views known to others.
Erica Hughes, who was joined by fellow high school teachers
from Sacramento,
said it was encouraging to see so many people crowding the
street.
"It's inspiring to see we're not alone in thinking we
shouldn't be at war," she said.
Those in the mammoth crowd carried a variety of signs, banners
and flags advocating a host of disparate causes ranging from
straightforward pleas against war to support for medical
marijuana, solar energy and selenium as a cure for cancer,
hepatitis C and AIDS.
A woman with her hair done in purple spikes carried a placard
that read: "War is SOOO last century."
Many of the signs called President Bush and his top advisers
international criminals. Several called for Bush's impeachment,
while hand-painted signs carried by two young girls likened him to
the villain of the Harry Potter stories -- "Bush = Voldemort."
The demonstrators were mostly white men and women between the
ages of 20 and 60, but the crowd appeared to include
representatives of many ethnic and age groups, from tots in
strollers to one elderly man who carried a sign that said,
"Old Timers for Old Europe" -- a slap at Defense
Secretary Donald Rumsfeld's dismissal of France and Germany for
their governments' wish to continue U.N. weapons inspections
rather than quickly attack Iraq.
Some marchers wore Veterans of Foreign Wars garrison caps, and
several showed up in full military uniforms, marching under a
banner identifying them as veterans.
STRONG FOCUS ON CHILDREN
Particularly striking was the large number of children present.
"The war is wrong," said 13-year-old Amanda Howes of
Hayward, who was marching alongside her 14-year-old sister, Jenna.
"We shouldn't send young men to be killed just because Bush
is mad."
Jenna added: "We should find a peaceful way to work out
our problems."
Tim Shelley of Sacramento demonstrated while carrying a sign
that said "Triplets for Peace" and pushing a stroller
with his three 4-year-olds, Maile, Jared and Callahan.
"They don't know what's going on, and I don't want them to
know what's going on," said Shelley, who said he had traveled
into the city to participate in the march with his children
"for their future."
Juni Sepe, who drove to San Francisco from Los Angeles with her
9-year-old son, Patrick, and her friend Frank Sosa, joined in
Sunday's demonstration with her dog, Flaca, who wore a sign in
Spanish that said "Dogs Against War."
Sepe said they had outfitted Flaca with the sign because
"she is a very calm dog. We rescued her from violence, and
she got the message."
Bayard Fox of Napa was holding a sign that said "Pray for
a Bigger Pretzel, " a reference to the snack food that Bush
accidentally choked on one afternoon at the White House.
"Of course, I don't really hope that he chokes on a
pretzel," Fox said. "I'm just cynical."
TRYING TO FOLLOW JESUS' COURSE
Dressed in long brown robes, his red beard glinting in the sun,
Rami Fodda strode toward Civic Center Plaza from the nearby St.
Boniface Church, a Franciscan church on Golden Gate Avenue.
Fodda, who said he grew up in Saudi Arabia and is studying to
become a friar, worries that a war against Iraq will endanger the
lives of his relatives in Jordan and Lebanon. He said his
religious beliefs form the foundation of his opposition to a war
against Iraq.
"The example of Jesus is the one I follow," Fodda
said. "When they came to take Jesus and Peter drew his sword
to protect him, Jesus stopped him and said:
'He who lives by the sword dies by the sword.' I am acting in
that way."
Along the route, some people were taking advantage of the large
Sunday crowd to make a few dollars. A few small shops on Market
Street that are usually closed on Sundays opened for the occasion.
Hawkers sold protest paraphernalia that included professionally
printed anti-war signs, T-shirts emblazoned with "Blessed are
the Peacemakers" and even voodoo dolls of Bush.
Earl Gadsden, a street singer who entertains tourists at the
cable car turnaround in Hallidie Plaza, was belting out the
anti-war tune "Down by the Riverside," with its famous
line, "I ain't gonna study war no more."
Gadsden said he had made $11 in just 15 minutes and said of the
tune, "It's a good song -- and today it's a very good
song."
Peace was good for other businesses, too.
At Rainbow Pizza, where a slice normally sells for $2, the
owner had set up a table on the sidewalk in front and was selling
slices for $3 apiece.
And the Javalisa Cafe was advertising a "Peace Rally
Special" of chicken club sandwiches for $7.
March sponsors set up a line of 29 garbage cans along the
middle of the road near U.N. Plaza to collect donations to offset
the cost of the rally, estimated to be more than $50,000.
HAWK AMONG THE DOVES
Not everybody who turned out for the protest expressed an
anti-war opinion, though.
Jeremiah Isbell, who moved to the Bay Area from Oklahoma eight
months ago, said he came to Civic Center Plaza to show his support
for the troops.
The 18-year-old Isbell, dressed in camouflage and wearing a gas
mask, had taped a hand-lettered sign to his backpack that said
"Make War Not Stupid Delusions."
Isbell, a solitary hawk, planned to walk toward the peace
marchers as they moved toward Civic Center Plaza.
"People out here are a little crazy, and they're in the
minority anyway," he said.
As protesters were gathering at Justin Herman Plaza, a biplane
flew over the crowd towing a banner with the contrarian message:
"Appeasing evil is immoral."
While most of the marchers crowded onto Market Street,
onlookers and supporters lined the march route on the sidewalks,
many carrying their own signs and banners. Tourists, shoppers and
other onlookers joined them, and between Sixth and Seventh streets
on Market, spectators stepped out of adult bookstores and other
amusement centers to take a look.
As the crowd swelled into Civic Center Plaza at the end of the
march route, Janet Roitz watched her 2-year-old son, Dane,
climbing in the playground.
"I'd like to be able to tell him he was here," Roitz
said. "I hope it's an historic event that means there will be
peace, even though he won't remember it. It will be important to
say he was here."
City worker Marlon Dominguez, 48, followed in the wake of the
march, tidying up after the protesters, sweeping streets and
emptying trash cans.
"They're pretty clean," Dominguez said.
"Everything is good, and everybody is working together."
Chronicle staff writers Tom Abate, Nanette Asimov, Kathleen
Sullivan and Bill Wallace contributed to this report. / E-mail the
writers at ahendrix@sfchronicle.com,
ppodger@sfchronicle.com
and srubenstein@sfchronicle.com.
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